As I travelled in the train away from Fort William in 2001 I recorded in the diary the short question “Will I ever do it again?” The walk had been completed in six days and my “training schedule” for it had been greatly interrupted by the foot and mouth outbreak which had closed most of the paths in England that went over fields. The Ordnance Survey book that I had read before deciding to do the WHW had stressed the importance of “preparatory training” but it had not bargained for the almost complete closure of the available country walks because of the epidemic. However, I had obviously done enough as I had made it albeit a little footsore in the early days. Yet here I was travelling by car to meet up with two of my sons for another walk along the same paths. We met at the airport and then we were off to Milngavie to stay over in a different starting point from my last starting point. If I had learned anything from the previous trip it was that for this and the ensuing nights of the walk a little luxury would not go amiss. Another difference this time was that I had company and also was going to do it in one day less. It was not without a little fear and trepidation that I thought about the latter but over a meal, a couple of drinks and the catch-up chat all that disappeared into the background.
Next morning we set out on the great adventure after a good breakfast and as it was in 2001 the weather was good. However, this time instead of setting of with my pack on my back, which had been an interesting logistical challenge, we all towed our cases up to the collection point and left them to be taken on to our next stopping point. Even better this time, as Duncan did not have a pack for the essentials on the walk he offered to share the carrying of mine if he could put his goods in it. It should be noted that I did not offer to do my share and this made a better prospect for me at least.
As it was in 2001 we set off to walk at a reasonable pace. The early part of it out of Milngavie is rather like a walk in a wooded glen – part of a public park – which is what it is. In 2001 I recorded that the first day was an easy progress soon to be along a disused railway tracks and I stopped at the Beech Tree Inn to have a sandwich and a pint, near Blanefield. Later on I recorded that it was “a bit muddy but never was it at all difficult and then I came out on to road at Gartness”. This time the progress was still as easy but as we had not stopped at the pub and indeed as there were not any places where we could stop to eat our sandwiches we were forced to “park” ourselves on the nicely mown grass outside the drive to a somewhat posh house. Luckily we were not asked to move on and it was not until we were ready to move that a car came out of the drive, but even then we were ignored. This time instead of turning towards Drymen, where I had stayed the second night nine years ago, we turned towards Conic Hill which stood between us and our first night’s stop at Balmaha.
Last time when I arrived in Drymen I was given a cup of tea by the landlady of the B & B and had time to clean the mud of my boots which was quite extensive and write a few words about the walk that day. This time no such easy option we were faced by Conic Hill which is 1175 feet high and although the going was tougher through the Garadbahn Forest than I remembered and had recorded it was by no means difficult and eventually I saw I was heading for a climb although I had forgotten how long it took from when we first saw the path up the hill to actually setting foot on it as we crossed the burn.
In 2001 before reaching the start of the climb when I was clambering over a style and to my great surprise I toppled over on my back and lay there for a few seconds rather like a surprised tortoise. The unaccustomed weight of the pack on my back carrying my worldly goods for the walk was the real culprit and had nothing to do with the pint I had consumed two hours earlier – but nevertheless it dented my pride. This time with no pack on my back there was no dent to my pride!
Last time in 2001 I recorded that “the climb which although not difficult was more taxing and at the top I sat down and rested in the sunlight”. This time it was more taxing but I consoled myself that it was due more to the fact that this time the climb was at the end of the days walk whereas the one nine years ago was at the beginning and of course I was nine years older. However, once again I took a rest at the top, sitting in the sunlight which was even hotter than in 2001, while Malcolm and Duncan went to the top and again I took a couple of photographs, missing out the clear view as I did in 2001. From here it was downhill to Balmaha on Loch Lomond and where we were to stay overnight. The years had not treated the path kindly and the water erosion had turned what had been a rocky but difficult path into a broad swath of rubble. However, we made it in good time for our first days stop and some very welcome refreshment.
The very eroded paths were to become a feature of the walk and it was rather sad that instead of being able to rely on sureness of step I was having to look all the time at the ground on which I was going to step instead of being able to look at the wonderful scenery that was in front and indeed all around.
On the climb up the hill my stops were frequent and we were overtaken by a number of walkers who had started out from Milngavie at the same time as we had set off and who we had passed once or twice before as meal stops etc., were taken. It was interesting to hear how the hill had affected each of the groups all of whom were noticeably less “gung ho” than on earlier encounters. The walk was beginning to level us and optimism levels were changing. Quite a few were bemoaning the fact that they had not “trained” sufficiently.
We arrived reasonably early at 17.00 hours and this gave us time to relax before washing and preparing for the evening meal and gave Duncan an opportunity to add to the blog that he had started. This was all a very long way from the little Dictaphone that had seemed “state of the art” in 2001 supplemented by a pad of paper. All this latter did was to store up work in transcribing after the walk in 2001.
Next morning after purchasing sandwiches we set off and again there was a little unclearness about the way forward which we found without the false start of my last walk. Once again the walk along the shore of the loch on the footpath which at times was a lot less like a path and more like an obstacle course – scrambling over tree roots through Rowardennan Forest.
I recorded in 2001 that “this really was a tough stretch” and like the last time we met up with fellow walkers exchanging greetings and commiserations. Last time I stopped for the night at Rowardennan reaching it about 18.00 from Drymen but this time, although we stopped to consume the sandwiches and admire the view, it was onwards as that night we were staying at Ardlui. Last time my third day had been from Rowardennan to Ardlui and here we were doing a “whole days” worth of walking in an afternoon! So off we went along the forest trail and then we started to veer off into the rougher tracks. Last time I recorded “however it was not as tough as it had been the day before” but this time the trail was very taxing and slowed us down to some tune. In 2001 this stretch had been at the beginning of my day so optimism must have ruled on that occasion.
In 2001 the first place I had encountered any people other than walkers was at Inversnaid Hotel where this time we stopped for a very refreshing two rounds of lime and soda. Then I had stopped for what I described as a “comfort stop, sandwiches and a beer” and on that occasion there were some American tourists who had travelled to the hotel by car and were interested in the trail along the shores of the loch, so much so that I had some difficulty in continuing on my way. This time there were some elderly UK tourists who were similarly interested in the trail, but not in doing it!
Last time I recorded “Back on the trail it soon I started to drop down the lower land at the north end of the loch where I passed through a farm which had “bothy” type accommodation. “ This time we were not going as far as the bothy – wigwam accommodation. However this time it seemed to be noticeably worse and we made some of the slowest progress of the whole walk. At Rob Roy’s cave Malcolm and Duncan detoured to look at it while I sat, thankfully, on the notice pointing the way to the cave. On the last occasion I had also decided to give the cave a miss!
On we went, toiling through some of the toughest track that we had encountered and indeed were to encounter. We were conscious of the slow progress that we were making but there was no opportunity to better it and we made our way to the point for the ferry to Ardlui at 19.00 hours to find out that the ferry ceased functioning at 7 p.m! However, we raised the signal ball and telephoned to the hotel – thank goodness for mobile phones and also the much improved signal coverage since 2001! At last the boat came and we boarded it thankfully and made it to the hotel. After a wash and a general tidy up we all felt better. Back in 2001 this stage was already becoming more difficult for me owing to the very severely limited wardrobe I was able to carry with me. However, no such limitations this time our cases were awaiting us as they were on each occasion to offer us the comfort of clean clothes.
Our arrival at the hotel was later than we had anticipated but the going had been difficult and when we looked across to the shore along which we had so recently struggled we could see the reason for it. From our vantage point in the hotel dining room you could see the shore plunge straight into the loch with no flat land along most of it. It is difficult to see how our time could have been better and we wondered if it would have been better if we had opted to go on to the hotel Inverarnan instead as the crossing seemed to lose us quite a little time.
Next morning after a good breakfast to send us on our way we went to the shop to buy a sandwich for our marathon walk to Bridge of Orchy, but alas there were none to be had so off we set in the ferry to the other side of the loch where Duncan retrieved the stick he had “adopted” earlier in the walk and off we set off for the head of the loch and the start of Glen Falloch. On the way we passed the wigwams which had a shop where I had bought an ice cream in 2001 at the end of my day, and which in the meantime had developed into quite a large emporium. (Obviously business along the WHW is good) At least we managed to purchase sandwiches and Malcolm equipped himself with two walking sticks. Now we were all able to lean on something, me on the stick which had been over the WHW before but this time was being used much more, and Duncan with his substantial silver birch staff.
We reflected that if we had opted last night for a walk to Inverarnan to stay over we would have been even later as the walk from where the ferry crossed to Ardlui with us in fresh state had taken longer than we had anticipated. The time/distance ratio on the east side of Loch Lomond seems to be much longer than it seemed in 2001!
The last time I had crossed over the head of the loch at Inverarnan to the west side where I had to reach the Drovers Inn from which I had to telephone (mobile phones did not seem to work then) to the Ardlui Hotel where I was staying to be collected. To find the telephone I had to go through the bar which seemed to be all of the lower floor of the rather curious building and on the way to wait I had a pint of delicious beer I was even offered another by a man who came over to talk to me - I did not think I was such a curiosity! However, this time it was a serious business for us with a long walk to Bridge of Orchy and we were back on the trail and from now it was a steady climb up Glen Falloch which was again in good weather as it had been the last time. I recorded that I had been thinking back in 2001 that it was possible to see how the old steam trains used to struggle with their load going north with their stentorian exhaust sounds echoing back from the hills and how they used to run like the wind on the way south. The track, the old military road, to the top of Glen Falloch seemed steeper and rougher than it had in 2001 and our progress was not as good as it should have been. From the parting of the ways to Crianlarich the track went along Strath Fillan and my record of the progress from nine years before suggested that it had been easier. “Once through the woods the walk seemed to be one of rapid progress”. Now it seemed tougher and it did seem to wend about a bit! At the wigwams in Strath Fillan we found another very welcome cafe where we had a cup of tea and Malcolm bought some Irn Bru which we quickly demolished. Encouraged by this caffeine and sugar rush we bought and consumed a bottle of Pepsi Cola. This gave us the feeling of wings and we set off like the wind for Tyndrum. Perhaps I have to rethink my opposition to such drinks and embraced the virtues of sugar and caffeine! In 2001 the easy walk on this section was not aided by sugar and caffeine.
In 2001 my destination for the day had been a hotel in Tyndrum which I had reached at 17.00 on that occasion. This time it was about 16.30 when we reached Tyndrum stopping at the general store but we still had to reach Bridge of Orchy another 6.75 miles. So off we went still buoyed up by the caffeine drinks along the ever stretching road but we made it at 19.00 hours. We were very glad to see the hotel where I had stopped for a lunchtime sandwich and a beer last time in 2001 but now it represented an even more welcome haven where we could wash off the weariness of the day, change into clean clothes and sit in the setting sun.
Last time on the stretch between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy I had managed to see two trains on the stretch, something of a record. This time we only saw one. Our stay at Bridge of Orchy was all too short but it was the one which was the most memorable. By this stage only the walkers who had made sufficient preparation were left to tell the tale and quite a number of those who had tackled the early stages with some disdain were already back at home. The WHW is not for those who have not prepared.
The next morning we were up as early as breakfast would allow as this was seen by us as one of the most difficult sections. Last time for me it had been part of the longest stretch of the whole trip from Tyndrum to Kingshouse. This time we were to go to Kinlochleven which meant that the end of the road would be over the Devil’s Staircase.
From Bridge of Orchy the trail went away from all roads and even the railway past Loch Tulla and up the Black Mount rising to nearly 3000 feet before dropping into Glencoe. Shortly after leaving Bridge of Orchy I discovered the room key in my pocket so back I went holding our progress up by about 20 minutes but much worse meaning that I had to climb the same hill twice! We made it to Mam Carraigh overlooking Loch Tulla where we put stones on the cairn as I had done the last time. I think the one I chose to put on this time was smaller, although it had not even been very big on that occasion! Two men to whom we had spoken at various times on the way were also at the cairn paying their respects to a departed friend who had walked the way with them before.
Down towards the Inveroran Hotel and we were overtaken again by the four Austrians who were walking at breakneck speed. This was perhaps the hottest day so far and it was good to start the slow and not too steep climb up the military road to the Black Mount and Glencoe and hopefully a little breeze. On the way we passed the Austrians who proffered their flask of schnapps from which we all supped. They were not going further than Kings House Hotel. Eventually we breasted the hill and saw the road leading along Glencoe to the sea, the breeze cooled us down a little and at last the Kings House hotel was in sight. Last time I made it to Kings House by 17.00 which, for me, was very good time and no little surprise as I had psyched myself up that this was going to be hard. Then, of course, it was my destination for the day and a welcome rest was possible. The hotel stands alone and the food was very good and last time in the evening the hotel was surrounded by a herd of deer. All very lovely and something that helped to emphasis the peace of the place.
This time it was our stop was for lunch and very gratefully received by us as once again we had forgotten to order a packed lunch and we faced the prospect of no food until Kinlochleven. Once again there were a few deer gathered round the hotel but not so many as the great herd of the last time. I suspect that is only a night-time gathering. The few that were there ignored the clicking of cameras. Soon we were on our way towards the Devils Staircase.
Last time I recorded that “it was a very stiff climb which I did with frequent stops. I was well ahead of the field at the start as I had breakfast early, but by the time I reached the top the fitter had closed the gap.” I also recorded that there was “one very odd couple dressed in a very Scottish way, he was in tweeds, looking like the archetypal “laird” and she had very elaborate, but obviously expensive tweed clothing. It turned out that they were French but it must have been hot in that garb! I overtook them on the way down towards Kinlochleven and never saw them again. Some West Coast line Virgin engine drivers also overtook me suitably dressed. The three brothers that I had seen on each stage also overtook me; they had been staying in the hotel but chose to rise late.”
This time I seemed to stop more often but with the patience of Malcolm and Duncan we made it to the top. Last time I recorded “once at the top the track was all downhill to Kinlochleven which I made in very good time,” This time although there was a lot of downhill there also seemed to be quite a bit of climbing to do. The last time I made it to Kinlochleven at 15.00 hours but this time it was not until four hours later that we found our way to the hotel. The last few miles, almost the last two, had seemed to take forever and were along roads and tracks that were not very interesting. Walking beside the large pipes that carry the water to the hydro-electricity plant it was interesting to note that one or two of the pipes were leaking. Not something I remember from the last time.
Once again we were much relieved to see the hotel and to wash the grime of the day away and change into fresh clothing. The hotel was perhaps the least good of all of the establishments in which we had laid our weary heads, but it filled the bill. It was also near the start of the WHW from Kinlochleven.
Last time I wrote “the next day after breakfast I set off in the rain having donned the waterproof trousers for the first time and the waterproof jacket. Within a short space of time I was as wet inside the clothes as if I had not bothered so I took the trousers off and the linen pair I was wearing gradually became drier. As I continued I thought that something was wrong with my arms as they had become so heavy until I realised that the sleeves of the jacket had filled with sweat so I took that off as well! Altogether I was less wet from the rain.” So much for the Gore-Tex linings!
This time there was no such problem as once again it was warm. Five good days in a row seems almost too good to be true! Last time I wrote “the trail followed a way through woods rising to nearly 3000 feet and then dropped down to the valley eventually to Glen Nevis.” At that time the sunlight that had appeared was drying me out. This time it became hotter and perhaps some rain would have been welcome!
On this occasion we had remembered to order sandwiches for lunch time but we forgot to collect them! Fortunately, we had not paid for them but we were still without something to eat. Luckily, Malcolm still had a selection of Jaffa cakes that he had bought in Milngavie which we quickly demolished!
The trail was vastly different in appearance this time from 2001 as there had been extensive logging operations in the meantime and what had been a pleasant walk through a wooded area was now a desolate land of the skeletons of the trees along a track that had borne the brunt of heavy machinery. The drop downhill towards Fort William was also much changed and only the sight of Ben Nevis cheered it up. Eventually we made it to Fort William where we had our photographs taken at the sign unofficially marking the end by a walker who had just completed it in seven days. More photographs followed as our acquaintances of the last few days arrived and then everyone parted for their various destinations, leaving the short-lived camaraderie of the WHW. Our place of rest for the night was just across the road from the end of the way so we gratefully made our way to it and washed the grime of the day away for the last time on the walk.
That evening we had a meal and then went to watch the England World Cup match, a very depressing affair. However, we were elated that we had made it as per plan but sad that it was over. For me it was a triumph to have made it in such short time compared with the six days of the last effort.
Part of the arrangement had been so that we would not end up in Fort William late on a Saturday and miss the trains back south but this time we had the choice of all the Saturday trains. Malcolm had to leave early to travel back to Munich. Duncan was going to climb Ben Nevis and set off early after breakfast and I had a lazy day in the sun, mainly sitting on the terrace of the Distillery Guest House. Duncan was back after a successful climb 23/4 hours up and 21/4 hours down with thirty minutes at the top. Then we were off for the train to Glasgow and back to Milngavie.
It was interesting travelling by train along the route that we had walked so recently, peering out of the train at the paths particularly from Bridge of Orchy where the path is so close to the railway. Will we ever do it again or indeed will I ever be able to do it again? Time for me, I think, to rest on my laurels.
